Pandemic made us find alternate ways of working, say Gen Next designers
For Gen Next designers Deepit Chugh and Twinkle Hanspal there have been many takeaways from the COVID-19 crisis, but the most important one has been how the last two years amid pandemic made them reconsider their approach towards the craft.
The two up-and-coming designers presented their collections at the ongoing FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week’s second ‘phygital’ edition — a blend of physical and digital elements — on Wednesday.
The fashion gala, which opened on Tuesday, is being jointly organised by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) and Lakme Fashion Week (LFW).
Chugh, who hails from Ahmedabad, said his label Line Outline was a ”lockdown baby” which he launched in October 2020.
During the first lockdown, the designer said he realised that a number of local tailors and craftspeople, who were running their own small businesses, were completely out of work.
”This gave my concept a push to work with these local tailors to maintain a healthy number of orders, along with teaching them better finishing.
”The pandemic has, if nothing else, made us find alternate ways of working. Designing the entire collection digitally before getting into the sampling stage has helped reduce wastage,” Chugh told PTI.
At the fashion gala, the designer presented his collection ”IDYLL”, a ready-to-wear line of men’s clothing that takes visual inspiration from coloured brutalist architecture.
”’IDYLL’ is a story of a utopian life — hopeful and energetic. A break from the crisis we are facing, in a world with freedom and expression. The collection is inspired by colored brutalist architecture, straight lines, clean minimalistic cuts,” he added.
Previously, Chugh has had several successful stints with Pantaloons and PARX at Raymond after graduating from the National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi.
The 32-year-old designer said that he incorporated soft cottons, cotton blends, Bemberg silks and Twill fabrics for the collection.
”It has minimalistic hand embroideries like cording, pitta work and zardosi which help elevate the products along with a focus on colour block and pattern play. The collection is ready-to-wear, with easy silhouettes,” Chugh said.
His label’s philosophy is to design clothes for people who like to chart ”their own paths and follow their own lines”, he added.
”Line Outline is a range of ready to wear clothing with a fluid narrative. Blending in clean tailored looks with sporty minimalism. The label pushes the semantic dialogue within the creative industry exploring the lines between form and function driven by an experimental yet wearable approach.” Though Chugh said he missed showcasing his creativity in front of a live audience, the designer insisted that there were many positives of a digital show.
”I think every designer has had a dream to have an actual runway show. The thrill and excitement is a different game. Nonetheless, this digital platform has an opportunity to reach a larger audience, which gives more visibility to a new brand like ours,” he said.
Hanspal, also an NIFT graduate, honed her creative talents with celebrity designers like Ritu Kumar, Anamika Khanna and Ridhi Mehra before launching her eponymous label.
She said the pandemic has been rough for the fashion community at large.
”The pandemic has been rough for one and all but only through this we realised and made careful conscious choices. It made us rethink our approach to fashion,” Hanspal told PTI.
The 28-year-old designer showcased a collection of women’s wear with the focus on the message of inclusivity.
The clothing range is a celebration of classic Indian silhouettes like the dhoti, kurtas and sari drapes with an emphasis on fabric cording, line stitch and dabka embroidery.
”The roots of this collection lie in celebrating the classic Indian silhouettes with a contemporary twist. It’s a vibrant array of colour-blocking and solids put together seamlessly. Luxurious silks and breathable cottons weave a timeless story,” she said.
Fashion is for everyone as it is conscious, wearable, inclusive and diverse, Hanspal added.
”Inclusivity in its entirety has influenced my aesthetic direction for this collection. Real design for real bodies, without compromising on our design language.” For the designer, putting together a digital show was both exciting and nerve-wracking.
”It’s been a dream to showcase at a fashion week from the start but the current scenario had different plans for me.
”Making a fashion film is probably more hectic when you look at the conceptual details, execution and production involved. It was exciting yet nerve-wracking but the journey itself was very fulfilling,” Hanspal said.
Going forward, the designer said her focus will remain on ”wearability and versatility”.
”Wearability and versatility are the main pillars of our brand aesthetic which we aim to translate into our clothing. The future of fashion must revolve around practicality and consciousness,” Hanspal said.
The fashion gala will run through Sunday.
